Manakeesh
It’s been called the ‘pizza of the Levant’, ‘Lebanese pizza’ or the 'poor man’s food’. Manakeesh are flatbreads traditionally topped with a mixture of olive oil and zaatar – the latter being a stellar combination of thyme, sumac, sesame seeds and other spices. Alternative popular toppings include a blend of cheeses, labneh (thickened yoghurt), or a tomato and onion mixture.
A highly popular breakfast or lunchtime food originating in Lebanon, manakeesh are enjoyed in that country and others including Jordan, Palestine, and Syria as well as across the Gulf and wider Middle East. In fact, with the culinary culture exchange that accompanies increased global migration, there’s hardly a region where you wouldn’t find these baked goodies today. The word manakeesh is derived from the root verb naqasha meaning to carve out, engrave or decorate with colours or writing. There are a couple of theories on why this name was chosen. One is that after the manakeesh dough has been rolled flat, it is pressed with one’s fingertips to create dimples in preparation for a scattering of the toppings. Another is that the colour of the toppings themselves decorate this otherwise plain bread – a metaphorical, edible canvas.
The best way to experience this delightful snack or meal is while it is still hot, fresh from the brick or clay oven of one of the plentiful bakeries in a Levantine city. A fun part of the experience is the enjoyable moments watching the baker deftly handle the round discs of dough, expertly and swiftly spreading the toppings over each one, and using a wooden paddle to manoeuvre the manakeesh from tabletop to oven at high speeds without compromising them in the slightest. The mankoosha (singular form of manakeesh) is then folded in half and wrapped in paper for ease of consumption. Everyone usually has their favourite furun (bakery) in their city – and in a city such as Beirut, one can typically be found on every street corner. To satisfy our cravings for this mouth-wateringly delicious snack freshly made from a bakery, at home we try our best to replicate the process with high quality fresh dough, pizza stones, baking pebbles, and high heat!
One thing that most will agree about manakeesh is that they can vary greatly depending on certain factors. These differences may be based on their size, as some prefer those mini circles that can be devoured in three bites rather than a whole portion. Thickness also plays a role, for there are those who favour a mouthful of fluffy mankoosheh over a little bite with minimal dough. Baking time is a major variable, with the desirable outcome usually being a perfectly soft dough neither chewy nor crispy. Finally, the toppings may be laid on thick or sparingly, and is something that comes down to personal taste, and sometimes generosity!
The varying nature of manakeesh is part of what makes them special, as it’s a unique experience from one mankoosheh to the next, and can be made according to each individual’s preference. The importance of using the freshest and best ingredients is of course vital to producing tasty manakeesh. Even when buying manakeesh from a bakery, many people use their own toppings to ensure the highest quality – as our great grandmother Deeba used to do, sending her grandsons to the local bakery with her own olive oil and zaatar blend from home.
Some believe that manakeesh date back to the 10th century, where its recipe was said to be first recorded in an ancient cookbook. They link the food to traditions in the biblical era whereby women would bake dough every morning in a communal oven, feeding breakfast to their families with small portions of dough with different toppings – which is said to have evolved into what we now know and love as manakeesh. Others dispute this however, claiming the gem is a more modern phenomenon – even though zaatar itself is known to date back many centuries. Whenever and however manakeesh originated, we are just oh so happy they exist!
