For the Love of Musakhan
Musakhan is one of those dishes that, even if you’ve just ravished a hearty five course feast, you just can’t help but salivate at the thought of it. Well, at least I can’t. One of the most popular Palestinian dishes, it truly is a national gem. The stars of this plate are sauteed onions brimming with flavourful spices, liberal amounts of high quality olive oil, and freshly baked Taboon bread. Sumac, made from dried and ground berries of the sumac flower, is the most vital addition to this delectable dish, giving it that signature tangy flavour that pairs perfectly with the almost sweet onions. The icing on top comes in the form of toasted pine nuts, and almonds for some. The combined forces of these simple yet formidable elements come together to elevate a basic chicken meal into an unforgettable burst of tantalising flavour that will leave your taste buds forever craving more. I have yet to meet a chicken lover who has not fallen in love with the mighty Musakhan.
As so many other wonderful culinary creations, Musakhan was conceived as a seasonal by-product of a yearly custom. Following the olive harvest, it was made to celebrate freshly pressed oil and was a way of gauging the quality of the olive oil. This could be seen as a sort of reverence to the natural bounties the land had to offer; the abundant olive groves, and the beautiful sumac trees. So cherished are the plentiful crops that have been nurtured and grown on Palestinian soil, that they are so deeply and intrinsically rooted in the heritage and culture of its people. As well as being a source of pride and joy in honouring the venerated offerings of the land, cooking and eating a meal of Musakhan is also a bringing together of people, as families and close friends gather in a communal spirit of appreciation for food – and country. In place of cutlery, it would traditionally be eaten by hand using pieces of bread to grab each delicious morsel, furthering the feeling of harmony with one another, and indeed with our ancestral customs.
The first time trying Sitto’s (our grandmother’s) Musakhan, which sadly already felt too late in life, was truly a magical moment; almost a feeling of awe and disbelief at discovering the existence of such an unbelievably delicious dish. Forever etched in my mind is the memory of that perfectly cooked succulent chicken in the centre of the table, dripping with spice-infused olive oil and tangy sautéed onions, surrounded by bread soaked in its juices that was gradually disappearing by the second, piece after piece eagerly torn off to scoop up another bite of this enviable feast. I’ve always aspired to recreate that beautiful taste of our grandmother’s Musakhan; although it does certainly turn out exceptionally delicious sometimes, it’s never quite the same as hers. People say this all the time about Musakhan, but when cooked right, it truly is nearly impossible to stop eating. The dish holds a special place in people’s hearts and minds, as well as the heart of the nation. It highlights the prized ingredients cultivated and grown in the earth of a precious land, and represents the strength and unity of families, coming together to enjoy the treasures of their country.
